Richtersveld - Easter 2006 It was rather chilly leaving home at 05:30 to meet up with the rest of the group at the N7 Engen station, but then again it was the Easter weekend and we all know how without fail the winter weather patterns seem to set in over Easter. Bruce Jenkinson our tour leader welcomed us on arrival and all drivers then set about the usual refuelling and oil, water and tyre checks that pre-empt a 600km journey. Thereafter we were introduced to our companions for trip and briefed on the days' activities. Bruce (with pals Hugo and Andre) in a 100 series Cruiser, Mark Stevens (and his three boys) in a Sani double cab, Nazier Hassan (2 sons and a daughter) in a Disco, Vernon Houston (and daughter) also in a Disco and yours truly Philip Scott (with my two sons) in a VW Syncro made up the group. Roger French, his wife and their two young children were originally part of the group, but left us at van Rhynsdorp when it became obvious to them that the youngsters weren't going to cope with all the travelling. A pity to loose them, but with the benefit of hindsight, a wise decision based on the condition of the roads we were to come across. Having overcome a leak from one of the vehicle's long range fuel tanks, we hit the road a bit later than planned, and set off for the breakfast stop at van Rhynsdorp, some two and a half hours away. The pace was set at a conservative 115kph, more as a fuel conserving measure than anything else, and we were able to witness a dramatic and beautiful sunrise just as we started to ascend the Piekeniers Pass. Although one of the vehicles suffered a burst tyre, which caused some damage to the left rear fender, the rest of the journey to van Rhynsdorp and then on to Springbok where we arrive at about 13h00 was, thankfully, uneventful. Constant updates via the 29 Meg radios kept us informed as to the status quo of all vehicles in our small convoy and entertained us during the long boring stretches. Browsing through the artefacts at the Springbok Café is the perfect introduction to this strange region with its rich mining history, harsh landscape and interesting flora. The minerals on display are fantastic in their nature and diversity and this really sets the scene for the rest of the trip. (And their milkshakes are the best in the world!) After lunch and having replaced the burst tyre at the local Tren Tyre, who especially opened for us to attend to our Good Friday emergency, we left Springbok at about 14h30 and headed for Port Nolloth on the west coast. The road from Port Nolloth to Alexander Bay, which was once restricted due to government paranoia, lead us into this small town, where diamond mining activities are to be seen all around and as far as the eye can see. We were even able to drive down onto the beach and view the mouth of the Orange River, which was an unexpected bonus attraction. A small flock of Flamingos foraging in the shallows of the lagoon provided an excellent photo opportunity on the way back into town. By this stage the sun was on its way down, further chilling the icy onshore breeze and we hurriedly left Alexander Bay for our first campsite on the Orange, some 30kms inland from the sea. Major flooding had washed away all the usual campsites, and our choice of overnight spot was further limited due to the high river level, but after some bush clearing and tight manoeuvring, we were able to get everyone a reasonably level site for the night. The most amazing sunset ended the day and the evening was spent being entertained around the braai fire as new friends got to know each other better. Being rather tired after the many hours of driving that day, we all turned in relatively early. Day two started with a swim and a wash in the Orange. As it would be two days until we returned to the river, everyone made the most of enjoying themselves in the fast flowing waters. What a way to start the day! Having packed up camp we headed off for the tiny settlement of Kuboes where the real off-roading was to commence. The track wound its way up river beds and over rocky terrain as he proceeded higher and higher into the Ploegberg Mountains. Severe down pours had caused wash-aways on several sections of the track and the convoy often had to halt and pack rocks so as to get the vehicles through safely. And there were no moans from anyone; with work to be done we all chipped in and did our bit to help. This is probably as good a time as any to mention that the teenagers in this party were particularly helpful and their positive attitudes (which aren't always in evidence at home) made the conditions pleasant to work in and lead to us conquering some extreme offroad obstacles calmly, safely and with ease. As we neared what would have been our lunch stop, we encountered a very bad section of track. Water erosion had caused dongas of half a meter deep along a particular steep stretch of the ascent. It is a fairly technical section as it is, without the drivers having to cope with the additional difficulties presented by the erosion. Many vehicles "fell out" of the tracks and had to be guided back over the "middle mannetjie". The spades were out and much road building was done. Having eventually guided all five vehicles through this section, we soon encountered an even worse section. It is a fairly technical section as it is, without the drivers having to cope with the additional difficulties presented by the erosion, which left large rocks unsupported by earth, as it had been washed away by the rain water. What was left, was high "rock steps" of loose rock, which we had to climb up and over. The convoy suffered many punctures through this section, with one vehicle alone getting three! Fortunately two of the three could be plugged, but the third hole was too large and the tyre had to be replaced by the spare, in possibly the worst imaginable situation. The vehicle was close to the side of the track and on quite a steep slope. Out came the high-lift jack and with a bit of huffing and puffing the pit crew did its job. This was one of three occasions when high-lift jacking was necessary and by the end of the trip, every vehicle had experienced at least one flat tyre. We certainly got to practise those skills so important to off-roaders. Bruce's help and expertise ensured that no serious damage was done to any of the 4x4's and the only bruises were to egos! He later mentioned to us that earlier in the year he had successfully lead an 11 or 12 vehicle convoy through that section in 45 minutes, whereas we battled for four hours to get out five cars through, such was the degradation of the roadway. The result of these delays was that we eventually arrived at Gelykwerf, which should have been our lunch spot, at 18h00, so this was where we camped. The main, and in fact the only feature of Gelykwerf, is a well for drawing water for animals drinking. It requires portly middle aged men to climb down 2 meters or so into its rocky confines, but once successfully negotiated, provides the weary traveller with the most refreshing bathing opportunity. After the day we'd had, it was a most welcome respite indeed despite the resident frogs' indignation. Gelykwerf presumably translates as "level plot" and is a misnomer of biblical proportions. Not only is it not level by any stretch of the surveyor's theodolite, but it is strewn with rocks and boulders making sleeping in a tent a most uncomfortable experience for those unfortunate to have neither a rooftop tent, nor a Syncro to sleep in! Anyway, the day's experiences had bonded the group nicely together which made for another enjoyable, if more mellow, evening around the camp fire as we rested our tired muscles and fed our resolves for the day that lay ahead. And then it started to rain. From about nine o'clock on the Saturday evening it rained constantly until nine o'clock on Monday morning. A typical Cape "hard drizzle", it came down non-stop, for 36 hours. The Richtersveld was certainly testing us. We were fortunate in that there was a brief hour or so break in the rain just as we needed to pack up camp, which allowed most of the tents to dry out sufficiently. Day three saw the group wend its way down to Eksteensfontein, after which we stopped briefly to view the Rooiberg Guesthouse, with its two traditional Nama huts, and then climbing up the hillside to photograph the 'Halfmens tree", which is quite a landmark to the area. Thereafter we meandered down the sandy riverbed, all the way down to the Gariep, where we were thrown our last challenges of the trip. The high level of the Orange River had caused the usual track to be underwater and a new road had to be chosen through the black rocks that line the banks. Without too much fuss or bother, we made it through and settled into our camp site at the old Peace of Paradise. Because of the rain, we parked the vehicles close together and opened awnings and spanned tarpaulins together to provide a large enough area for us all to spend our last evening together under one roof and warm and dry. Sure it leaked like a sieve, but it turned out to be the most sociable evening of the trip and suitable rounded off a most pleasant long weekend. The next morning we were once again provided with an hour or so window of no rain, in which to pack up camp. And so began the long trip home via Vioolsdrif and Springbok where we once again stopped for a burger and a milkshake. Others chose KFC and the Wimpy. The one Discovery had developed a severe propshaft vibration and upon closer inspection we realised that the rubber "donut" had been so badly damaged by the beating from the rocks, that it was only hanging on by a thread. It was decided to remove the shaft and for the vehicle to proceed back to Cape Town in front wheel drive only. Once that had been done, we hit the long road back for home and it was a very weary, yet thoroughly fulfilled group that gathered in the darkness by the side of the road just outside Malmesbury to bid each other farewell. What an experience. This is certainly not a trip for those wanting a quiet weekend lounging next to the river, but I wouldn't have swapper it for anything. I marvel after each trip off-road at the levels of assistance and co-operation that exists amongst 4x4'ers. Whenever one of us needed help, the whole group was there to lend a hand. Thank you to you all and especially to Bruce for making this a most enjoyable trip. Philip, Derek and Andrew.