Mozambique Adventure - 5th to 22nd August 2008 Visiting Mozambique had been our major objective for about 3 years, and Club members showed considerable interest, ultimately resulting in 7 vehicles making the journey. The group included Andy & Veronica Brown, Jorgen & Sonja Dahl, Dave & Judy Pretorius, Peter & Barbara Boyes, Roy & Maureen Bane, and Sandy & Shirley Rossiter. Rendezvous was at Bela-Bela, as we were to exit RSA at Pafuri from KNP. This allowed members to arrange their own departure dates from Cape Town. Five of us met there, as Jorgen & Sonja joined the convoy late via Botswana, having to repair their trailer in Louis Trichardt. Pete & Barbs worked their way up through Kruger and met us in Punda Maria. Our chosen route was to travel down to Mapai, cross through the Limpopo, and spend 2 nights in the bush on our Easterly route to Vilankulo. Then we would work our way down the coast, and re-enter RSA in KZN near Kosi Bay. On arrival at Punda Maria most of us grabbed a quick game drive, sighting lion, elephant and a large buffalo herd in the couple of hours before dark. At our evening briefing the group opted for rotating the report journal daily to provide a different perspective of the keenly-awaited trip. This has been censored and edited! [Viv] 5TH AUGUST: PUNDA MARIA TO BUSH CAMP 1: The day began with an early start which saw the group depart Punda Maria at 06h00. Our first objective was to reach the Pafuri border control as early as possible to minimise potential delays with immigration formalities. Along the route the leading vehicles were privileged to see a pair of cheetah, which posed long enough for good photographic opportunities. We arrived at Pafuri before the border opened, which gave Veronica plenty of time to loose the vehicle keys! Our next objective was to reach the much-vaunted Limpopo River crossing at Mapai. After a long ride in very dusty conditions we arrived to find the river level low. Viv and I took the `tiger line`, which entertained the onlookers with some slipping and sliding on the far bank. The remainder of the group opted for an easier line a little further downstream. The self-appointed crossing `attendant` was deprived of the R60 per vehicle that he charges for using his log bridge! After lunch spent at the side of the Limpopo we reached our camp site at 15hr30. This was a beautiful clearing which Mary had spied as we traveled along through the dust. The group spent a very pleasant evening around the fire, with me providing some guitar-backed songs. [Andy] 6TH AUGUST: BUSH CAMP 1 TO BUSH CAMP 2: At our camp on the Northern edge of the Banhine National Park [S22 15.750 E 32 57.432 Elevation 152m] most of us were up early, in spite of the 09hr00 departure time. This section of road was wide with varying surface, and to reduce the dust every alternate vehicle opted for riding on the right, with the first driver providing early warning of hazards and oncoming vehicles. After close to 2hrs the road narrowed and went through trees and bushes, most attractive, and we drove through many villages, sadly with not much bird life visible. At 11h00 we stopped for coffee in 31 deg., having opted for a well-used route, but which the GPS had marked as `landmine hazard`. We passed through Masamare village, which was bigger than most and very neat and tidy, crossed an old Bailey bridge and stopped for lunch close to a few huts. Adventurous youths were eventually rewarded by Andy giving them pens and paper, but he had to show them how to hold the pen! Viv and Mary again chose an ideal campsite [S 22 7.83 E 33 43.567 Elevation 179m] and within a short time tents were erected and firewood collected. The evening ended with a braai where conversation centred on the beautiful drive, with all preferring the narrower bush track with no traffic. Much hilarity as people shared jokes. 7TH AUGUST: BUSH CAMP 2 TO VILANCULOS: An `early` 08h00 start was made due to the distance to be traveled to Vilankulo and the reportedly bad roads ahead. The road was much better and less dusty, after some overnight moisture. Viv usually leads the convoy with the last vehicle moving up to second each day. We stopped at Lake Baramere in the middle of nowhere, which had no water but beautiful scenery. Another old, probably military, Bailey bridge was crossed here, and we drove past many small villages, not knowing when we were supposed to reduce speed. We bought firewood @ R3.33 per bundle, and at last hit the tar road at Mapinhane, having an easy run into Vilankulo. We stopped at the Taurus Grocery Store, buying our first 2M good Moz. beer, then through the back streets to Blue Waters Resort, where at last we could pitch our tents for 3 nights. A very pleasant camp site under trees, with only fair ablutions, but a heavenly setting with views of the turquoise sea through the trees. Some of the party went to the restaurant, whilst we had a light meal in anticipation of things to come! [Maureen & Roy] 8TH AUGUST: VILANKULO: A beautiful vista of blue sea past rolling green lawn and palm trees....what a great way to start a day! At 06h30 Pete and Roy were already wheeling and dealing for prawns and calamari which was later cleaned on the beach, while the ladies negotiated delivery of fresh fruit. Judy and Jorgen went horse riding, which included riding in the surf, while the rest of us spent the morning on the beach under the palm trees. Snorkeling practice and splashing in the warm sea was followed by sipping 2M beer around the pool. Later Veronica and I went horse riding on horses rescued from Zim. during the recent land grabs, were bought drinks afterwards by Patrick, the guide, and brought back by Land Rover after dark. Our first big seafood cook-in was enjoyed, some braaiing prawns, others made paella with fish, mussels and prawns. Wow, what a treat! It was Sandy`s birthday, and he had a day to remember. [Barbara] 9TH AUGUST: VILANKULO: After a beautiful sunrise we boarded a dhow from the white beach at our camp to sail across to Magaruque, the most Southern of the Bazeruto Islands. Our crab and calamari lunch was being cooked on an open-flame braai on board [half a metre from the petrol tank!], but we enjoyed the trip to a most beautiful picnic spot. Most of us had a wonderful time snorkeling in the magnificently clear blue sea, where we viewed a stunning array of colourful fish in calm water close to the dhows. Others sat in the shade enjoying the beauty. Lunch was served by the crew, and consisted of calamari, crab, rice, bread, fruit and salads. We felt so privileged to be part of this magnificent day! More snorkeling amongst the beautiful fish after lunch, and then on the trip back Andy took the helm of the dhow, fulfilling one of his lifetime ambitions i.e. to sail a dhow in a Kazkazi Wind. More seafood braai for supper ended a day to remember, and we felt very blessed! [Sandy & Shirley] 10TH AUGUST: VILANKULO TO MORRUNGULO PALM FOREST: Leaving Vilankulo early, we had time to reflect on our fantastic 3 days there, all having accomplished a dream of some kind. Our trip included dodging potholes and weaving trucks, and buying bananas and naartjies in one of the many villages on route. Turning off the `main highway` and onto a good gravel road, we entered a beautiful forest of palm trees which stretched down to the coast, bought fresh rolls from a roadside bakery hut, and arrived at our grassed camp in a beautiful palm grove next to the beach. We settled back to enjoy the peace and tranquility here, with only prawn salesmen and a lady selling cloth and sarongs requiring any effort. Supper was eaten under a fantastic starry sky, and although different, of all the camps visited, this one left us with beautiful memories. [Veronica] 11TH AUGUST: MORRUNGULO: Since nothing specific and urgent was planned for the day, some of us tried to have a lie-in, but with others getting up early, and the early-rising sun, that doesn't`t work! Anyway we were woken by a short rain shower, the first of 2 during our 3 week trip. Not bad! We broke open and devoured coconuts which occasionally fell from the overhead palms. The day was a bit windy and really not for lying on the beach. Most of us decided to walk along the beach to Sylvia Shoal Restaurant for lunch, whilst Mary, Viv, Dave and Judy visited two other camp sites close by. Roy bought 2 enormous crayfish, 2.1kg each, and they were duly devoured for supper. Andy once again entertained us with his guitar and singing to end the day. [Jorgen] 12TH AUGUST: MORRUNGULO TO PAINDANE [NEAR INHAMBANE]: Once again we packed up with a beautiful sunrise and, once back on the tar, found the road had improved considerably. We were untroubled by cops as we headed for Maxixe, where we were disappointed not to find the expected credit card fuel facilities. We once again opted for a track originally spotted on Mapsource, rather than the recommended route, to reach Paindane. This saved around 25km, proved to be much better than the badly corrugated main route, and passed through quiet rural areas. Our camp sites at Paindane gave us great views of the snorkeling reef, with palm trees, blue sea and whales ever-present in the bay. We had great baracas, but the sites were sloping and very sandy. Some of us walked along the beach to the restaurant and dive centre, and returned by 4x4 for our evening meal. [Mary] 13TH AUGUST: PAINDANE: The group had decided on an excursion to Inhambane, and after a beautiful sunrise and early swim, we headed out in 2 groups. After filling up with fuel there we proceeded to the market to buy some fresh produce. It was a vibrant colourful place with nice fresh fruit, veg. and curios. The Browns and le Sueurs took time to look around the town at fascinating old Portuguese architecture, and we all met up at Tofo for lunch, about 25km East of the town. Tofo Scuba provided great hamburgers and other delights, with cold beer, warm sun, bikini girls and dive boat launches to keep us entertained. We rounded off the day with a nice braai, and some hit the bed early.[Peter] 14TH AUGUST: PAINDANE: We arose early to a cloudy sunrise and to much excitement about the boat trip to snorkel in the Coral Garden and then whale-watch. In perfect weather our skipper Vossie launched us in the rubber duck, after a detailed briefing, together with a group of divers on a training run. We were dropped off at the reef into an unbelievable area, with fewer fish than Magaruque, but what a spectacular colourful array of coral! After about 30 minutes Vossie returned to drag us onto the rubberduck, which was not easy. What an experience! We then set off looking for whales, viewing a mother and calf, and a couple of bulls within 80m of the boat before heading back to shore. For some it was brunch at the restaurant next to the dive centre, whilst others went back to swim in the warm water. After a lazy afternoon some visited the restaurant for supper, and others braaied, all reflecting on one of the best days so far. [Roy & Maureen] 15TH AUGUST: PAINDANE TO ZAVORA: Mercifully no sign of the previous night`s de la Rey fans, the only time we had noisy campers in 3 weeks. Once again we used the same track through the bush to reach the main tar road. Lovely drive, no other traffic and no more corrugations. On the tar with tyres hard for the short trip, we stopped amongst the naartjie trees to stock up on the sweet source of vitamin C. The gravel road to Zavora was hard, and the camp site a pleasant surprise. An entire area away from the main camp site, with sea views and baracas for all! 50m from the beach and 200m from the restaurant with cold 2M, together with DSTV for tomorrow`s SA vs NZ Test match! Life is tough in paradise. A great communal braai ensued after we were able to buy enormous King prawns in the camp site. [Dave] 16TH AUGUST: ZAVORA: A wonderful morning, started by sipping coffee overlooking the blue ocean. Then 10 of us set off along the beach to the reef, where there is a magnificent rock pool [est.100m dia.] which can only be reached at spring low, and that was today! We were so lucky! We had another wonderful snorkeling experience, with the coral display better than Paindane, and with many more fish of all sorts. Veronica unfortunately was stung by a sea urchin, which required Dr Bane to show his surgical skills back in camp. We were delighted to be able to watch the rugby, [rather a dismal result] and Viv won the betting run by Andy, and had to buy a round of drinks. Braai for some, and as usual restaurant food for others. Just another day in Moz. [Shirley & Sandy] 17TH AUGUST: ZAVORA TO MONTEGO CAMP [XAI-XAI]: The previous evening I had expressed my thanks to Andy & Veronica for their great support to me and Mary in all aspects of the trip. They sadly left the group on the road to Montego Camp, as they had urgent business commitments. We stopped at the viewpoint in Quissico, bought our first cashew nuts, and again selected a back road to the camp. This lead us down to a large derelict hotel where the dune sand build-up against the external walls required us to deflate tyres, and we reached the camp via a narrow beachside track. Terraced and shady, Montego provided us with spacious good value areas, and was within 100m of the crab-filled beach. Our usual campfire, with prawns and potjies. Just as we dished our meal a 10 minute shower sent us scurrying for cover and broke up the party. [Viv] 18TH AUGUST: MONTEGO [XAI-XAI]: A grey cloudy day with a nippy wind blowing did not stop the hilarity and high spirits around the coffee table, then most of the group went to town to buy supplies. This trip will be remembered for all the CA vehicles in town riding around in circles trying to find the bottle store! We had a peaceful time in camp, walked on the beach, had a beer in the pub, and returned to share our lunch with Sandy & Shirley. We sat and played cards before our traditional braai.[Barbs] 19TH AUGUST: MONTEGO [XAI-XAI]: A clear warm day as usual started with the 07hr00 arrival of the baker man, with white hat and big smile, together with croissants and French loaves. We all departed for the Pools of Eden, supposedly a good snorkeling spot for which we had very sketchy directions. The drive was interesting, first through down town Xai-Xai, then via hilly farmlands onto a dune track where sand driving skills were well tested. After parking right on the beach we soon discovered that the visibility for snorkeling was less than 1m, but swimming was good. We all crept into the shade and had our picnic lunch out of the hot midday sun. Viv had us doing `no hands` driving [Dylan-style] on the deeply rutted tracks on the way back. Another wonderful day, with some braaiing, and others opting for a very nice restaurant at a nearby lodge. [Pete & Barbs] 20TH AUGUST: XAI-XAI TO PONTO MALONGANE: Today we traveled about 10 hours, and it was long but interesting. The village of Manhica was full of pavement cafes, and numerous brick bread kilns were in operation along the road. Cashew nuts and gamadillas were a big hit as we traveled. Traffic built up considerably as we got closer to Maputo, with road blocks and nightmarish bi-passes, with hundreds of vendors and wall-to-wall taxis doing what they do best, making convoy driving difficult. Then we were past Maputo, and turned South at Boane, onto a poor gravel road, where we found a lunch spot. At a police check-point in the middle of nowhere we had to produce our temporary import permits, and after some heavy sand, arrived at our final camp around 6pm. This venue was ideal to end off a great holiday! Thank you.[Judy] 21ST AUGUST: PONTO MALONGANE: Most of us chilled out in this fine camp, some venturing out to Ponta do Ouro and finding places for breakfast. Dave & Judy helped a family in a 4x4 Isuzu bakkie who traveled only 20m into Moz before sticking in the sand. Dave says they were very reluctant to deflate their tyres, and did not know how to engage 4wd. The nearby dive centre had a good pub, and we booked a table at the camp restaurant for a farewell gathering. This was a festive affair, and brought the trip to an end on a high note. [Viv] 22ND AUGUST: DEPARTURE: As there was no requirement to travel in convoy from Ponto Malongane, we said our goodbyes to the group early, and Mary and I accompanied the Dahls to Harrismith, where we stayed in a B & B, before leaving them and heading home. So ended an enjoyable and relaxing holiday, with no fines or any of the expected intimidation other than 2 stones being thrown [reminds me of the R300], no breakdowns, and no money left! Viv & Mary le Sueur