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Transkei - June 2010
By Philip Henry [with inserts and editing by Viv]
“Warm sea, fishing, snorkeling, boating etc. and including special 4x4 trails
and routes.”
Great theory, but...... I think Viv forget to chat to the Big Chap upstairs who does the real
planning. Warm was not a word commonly used on this trip and one could easily be forgiven for
thinking "Sutherland at midnight" when one's closing their eyes, anytime during the day.
The beautiful coastline certainly compensated though.
Rendezvous for the 5 vehicles was at Addo Elephant Park. Only one was pulling a trailer [James &
Louise with Abigail and Nathan] and it must have been heavy going...as it only got there a day
later....but made up for it with their great companionship.[the others were: Joan & Keith, Werner &
Cecelia, Philip & Claire, with Viv & Mary] The park boasts elephant and lion "if lucky", which we
unfortunately weren't. Even most of the ellie's were hiding from the cold front which was
tormenting the "first time campers". [Claire & Cecelia]
We then made a beeline for Morgan's Bay, Double Mouth and some warmer climate. The holiday
only really started once we began to lose cell phone signal, (that is always a good holiday-starting
benchmark). The views en route are spectacular and thanks to Viv and Mary for planning it
accordingly. The route did have it's drawbacks though....too many photo opportunities!!!! All was
forgotten once we reached Double Mouth, one of the most picturesque sites I've seen in a long time,
and it had all the facilities. [Our first night braai was ended abruptly by high winds which
scattered our rally tents, awnings etc]
Claire managed to pull the first fish of the trip, with Louise going one better by cooking her
larger catch. [James, Viv & Philip were being shown up!]
After 3 nights we were off to Dwesa Nature Reserve [via` ferry crossing` at Kei Mouth].
The ferry sounded exciting until the said vessel came into view. We were not sure whether they would
even be able to ferry people, let alone a fully-loaded vehicle! However it was found to be sound,
and very competently skippered.
The scenery [at Dwesa].... words will never do it justice, use any that conjure up beauty as only
we have in this country, at its best. Ablutions were adequate but the only stop that did not have
with electricity, (slumming in the bush I tell you, and for a whole 2 nights) [We had exclusive use
of a great braai area with raised slab]. Some nice bird life and very forward "vermin" monkeys. As
Werner will testify, do not turn your back or you loose your breakfast. I'm sure he enjoyed trying
to retrieve it from them up the tree. Even Louise standing guard with a "spatula", over her
breakfast, wasn't fast enough to stop a "run by" snatch and grab by one of these little critters.
For the rest of us, it was a huge source of entertainment.
We then drove a guided trail [through the forest, down to the beach and river mouth] and almost
saw some big game, but again, a scenic pleasure just to be there driving through the rarely-driven
areas - what a privilege!
Then to Coffee Bay, via 5 Kings Pass; [Lunch on the edge of the Gxwaleni Forest and having to turn
back as the forest road was closed] White Clay Camp was the most scenic and had the ideal setting,
overlooking the ocean, from an elevation of about 50 meters. The pub also had TV, to accommodate
the sport nut, like me.
[Visited the amazing Hole-in-the-Wall and beautiful Maphuzi Point and had a group pub night.]
Next stop was the Anchorage Hotel (north of Coffee Bay) [Visited Mtatha River Mouth and the
fishing only produced a small sand shark. Then we tried Mdumbe River Mouth with no luck. That night
we watched Bafana Bafana beating France whilst exiting the World Cup]
Although this campsite had all the amenities, the electricity was continually switched off
to save power !!!!!!!!! with no concern for your fridges running on it!
This site was where I managed to PERSONALLY catch the biggest fish of the trip, (a whole Shad).
It was also a good redeeming place for the fishermen, being the biggest edible fish.
[Heading for The Pont at Port St.Johns we visited Presleys, Mthonga River Mouth and Mpande,]
Probably the best camp for relaxation and having by far the best amenities. Despite camping,
"Kentucky Chick" is not far off, as Claire and I can testify to, with the town only being 8 odd Km's
away. The sightseeing sites suggested are a must, especially the old airport on top of the mountain.
There was a beautiful runway.....full of cow "patties". Having a pilot with us, we had a chuckle about
how you would explain to anyone....that coming into land.....I hit a cow. I can just imagine the response.
[Braai remembered for Viv's crayfish....9 for R100, and Abigail's roasted marshmallows.]
Joan enjoyed her swim at 2nd Beach, and her Landy beating the Toyotas in a drag race on the
landing strip]
Our trip home was via Mountain Zebra National Park. A true SAN Parks facility, as we have all
come to know them. Well done out, clean and friendly. The cost certainly appears to be escalating
though, so get there rather sooner than later. NB they also have the "vermin" monkeys in the camp
sites. There are two 4 x 4 Drives, where the game viewing was considerably better than the normal
routes.
[We met for our Farewell dinner after a game drive, and bid` bon voyage` to the Group who had maintained high spirits throughout the trip].
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