Richtersveld& Southern Namibia - September 2010 By Kerry van der Spuy TRAVELLERS : GREG, NIEL, KERRY, AMBER, MANDY, LAWRENCE, COURTNEY, CAMERON, PHILIP, CLAIRE (PEANUT), WAYNE, NICKY, ALEKSANDER, SARA, PHILIP, VERONICA, IAN, RODGER, ARIE, REECE, ANDREW, CATHERINE, GEORGE, LOUISE Finally........after much anticipation of getting deep into the bundu and away from the bright city lights, the day dawned. We met up with the group in Springbok and watched Wayne tucking into Mandy's muffin with gusto - so........it all began!! We headed up to Port Nolloth for the last time to fill up. The weather was cold and windy and it seemed it was a taste of things to come. A mining rig had run aground on the shores of Port Nolloth and for us (Niel and I) residents of Tableview, it felt like home from home. We travelled towards Alexander Bay, then turned in and headed to a river bed, surrounded by incredible weathered rock formations and messy crows nests, where we made it home for the night. The children climbed and played to their hearts content. An ostrich carcass nearby littered our campsite with big wavy feathers. We sang Happy Birthday to Niel around the fire and celebrated with cupcakes and sparklers. Thanks again to Greg for transporting them through. We awoke the next morning to silence - no birds chirping! However, that wasn't to last long, as our faithful alarm clock, Philip, started the car, leaving it to idle, alerting any sleeping heads that it was indeed morning and we'd soon be on the move. After a quickie breakfast, the convoy bumped along to our tea stop, near a moemfie rock (whatever that might mean......Greg would you please explain). The scenery never failed to amaze as it changed from sandy, rocky to a variety of succulents - such a feast for the eyes. We stopped at a well, where the skin of a porcupine was the evidence of one very hungry and brave local. We chugged along and thank you Philip for alerting us to a strange/alarming hissing noise coming out of our engine. Turns out the radiator hose had sprung a leak and with the help and expertise of many men, it was fixed. We carried on to some huge caves that dwarfed us. Upwards and onwards we travelled, once Greg had informed us of our snails pace, we had to kick into Sarel Van der Merwe gear, this pace was kept up throughout the trip and made for excellent and exhilarating driving experience. We made camp on the side of a mountain that overlooked the expansive valley below. Breathtaking views!!!! For the first time late that afternoon, we were able to see blue sky and later, the stars........hmmm, hopefully some changes in the weather was on the cards. Andrew had many helpers and lots of advice pertaining to the cooking of the butternut in the potjie......but the proof was in the pudding, as the diners later confessed, it was delicious. It was a late night for some as tales that should only be told around a bush fire were regaled. A donkey in the valley expressed its' dismay at our presence and brayed throughout the night and jackals called in the distance. We awoke to another cloudy day, and heavy dew (those of us who foolishly/lazily didn't pack away the night prior were busily drying out their camping gear). Our alarm clock was cranked up, forcing Wayne and Nicky out of their tent by the fumes. Bless you Phil, for your consideration to start your vehicle only when Peanut was awake. Up a steep pass and along to a mica mine. I am sure that everyone believes in fairies now after all the silvery dust. We then headed down into a riverbed where some challenging rocks provided plenty of photo opportunities - smile Louise, smile! Nicky found some wildlife under a rock, that she probably wished she hadn't come across in the first place. Never mind Nicky, they say the bigger the scorpion, the less severe the sting. Ever faithful Arie was at the back with his 'bursting with enthusiasm and energy' co-driver, Reece. The scenery was desolate and harsh as we stopped at the green granite open cast mine for our lunch time stop. The children (again) leapt out of the car and the scene was transformed in their imagination into a temple of the ancients. Uphill and down dale went the convoy - the absolute starkness of the landscape giving one the feeling of insignificance in its' vastness. The next mine we stopped at was a fluorspar mine. For those of you that aren't sure of it's uses.......consider the following...... if fluorine chemicals derived from fluorspar had not been available, the atomic bomb that ended World War II could not have been made. There are many other uses for fluorspar including: the production of glassware and ceramics, an additive to drinking water and toothpaste to prevent cavities; flu carbon used in cookware, lubricants, building materials, and many other fluorine chemicals. We entered the mine shafts, Claire, as prepared as ever, with a hanky over her delicate nostrils. The bats hanging and squeaking above our heads delighted and disgusted some. The smell, however, revolted all. By now, the sun was beating down and our campsite in desert and granite surroundings was amazing. We were there early enough in the day to chill out, walk or climb, as the mood dictated...........there was even time for one lucky individual that evening to find signal and make a moonlit phone call. The temperature had dropped significantly when the sun had gone down and the chill factor in the wind was felt. Greg and Rodger delighted us all with the presentation of freshly cooked pancakes. Coals gingerly placed under the chairs that evening, ensured warm 'cores' and mint chocolate handed around from Philip and Claire was the perfect ending to the evening. A clear, blue sky greeted us the next morning as we arose and packed up camp. Greg unfortunately got more than he bargained for when doing his morning 'walkies' and was greeted by a pink posterior of some unsuspecting fellow traveller who was heeding to their own nature call. Along another river bed framed by tall rocky outcrops, crisp fresh air - what a start to the day. The border crossing into Namibia was uneventful as we all became strangers to one another. After heading to the Engen garage for fuel for cars and bodies, we were ushered along to our next obstacle, one se-ri-ous steep hill. The view, however, was mind blowing (so was the wind). I think the next bit of the trip was one of my favourites, as again, the landscape was so unusual, desolate, yet extremely beautiful. Just couldn't believe how fortunate we were to be able to witness it. In the middle of nowhere (really.....nowhere) was a derelict German fort and the graves of the young soldiers who lost their lives there. The next bit of adventure was the ridge-riding, edging along the tops of the hills. Veronica is now a converted 'shorty' girl as she took Greg's Landy through it's paces. Catherine showed her spunk and took her man's vehicle over a few more. We settled at an ancient bushman site that afternoon, where one could almost feel them dancing around their fires, sending offerings for a good hunt in the abundance of animals that once roamed the area. The children climbed and scrabbled over the rocky outcrops, stopping only when parents scolded for not taking in enough liquids/not applying enough sunblock. On the road again the next morning with most women at the wheel. Highly entertaining (for the men) and enjoyable for the girls - need a woman's driving course please! Temperatures had climbed into the 30's and the road down to the copper mine was steep and slow going. However, we were rewarded with being able to find nuggets of 'fools gold' and green copper stones. We then meandered down to the Orange River and set up camp. A few bravehearts ventured into the water - it was a lot colder than it looked. Relaxing and fishing seemed to be the order of the day. (On any other subjects, it's best not to interfere with nature, or the results can be heart-breaking). Our last night was spent under a spectacular starlit sky. Sometimes I feel so incredibly blessed and enriched by certain experiences - this was definitely one of those trips, where words cannot adequately describe my delight, astonishment and fulfilment by being so fortunate to be taken to these beautiful places. My family and I want to thank Greg for sharing his special locations with us all. To our fellow travellers, it was such a pleasure to travel with you - as Greg's T-shirt said "EVERYONE DIES, BUT NOT EVERYONE LIVES."