Mozambique - August 2011 by Viv & Mary le Sueur Sunday 7th August: After months of planning, preparing vehicles and stocking up, our group gathered at the Phalaborwa rendezvous at Lantana Lodge, each with their own stories of the solo trips North from Cape Town through unusually cold weather. Ralph and Margaret Eliasov had to buy another Isuzu in a hurry, after Ralph had damaged their vehicle in an accident a week earlier in Montague Gardens. Wayne & Marjorie Coram arrived in their smart Land Cruiser, having fitted a new radio, and carrying a canoe. Edward & Alison Newton joined us from the Gauteng Club in their Nissan D/C. Corne` & Erika Smal arrived in the `Beast` Samel overlander, whilst Kevin & Lesley Staegemann in their Pajero were to join us later in Punda Maria after a KNP Eco Trail. We had been on the very worthwhile 6 day Shingwedzi Eco Trail, the Transfrontier Park guided route, the lucky draw prize at the Outdoor Warehouse Club meeting in March. All had experienced the cold fronts and snow on the way up, and were longing for warm weather! Monday 8th/Tuesday 9th: [Punda Maria KNP]: We travelled separately through the Park, game-viewing and lunching at leisure, to re-group for a welcome 2 night stop. The weather warmed up, and we cheerfully relaxed and went on game drives. Kevin & Leslie showed up, and we were set for our trip to the coast via Pafuri border post and the Mapai crossing of the Limpopo. Wednesday 10th: A very eventful day! A 06.00 hrs start, as we were 1-stopping to Inhassoro saw us through the border and down the bumpy baobab-lined road through the villages to the Limpopo crossing. Having been there 10 days earlier on the Shingwedzi Eco Trail we were prepared for the sight of the swift-flowing river, occasioned by unseasonable rains in the Northern provinces. We paid R70 per vehicle to use the adequate causeway, a local community project which had been vastly improved since the Club trip in 2008. After lunch in the forest past Machaila we advised the convoy to take a sharp left turn just on arrival at a village, and guess what? Three vehicles went straight on, and a chicken was flattened! By simple deduction we agreed that the culprit was Kevin, but he denies knowledge! A strange coincidence was that within a few km`s he broke a rear shock [boney bird?]. Corne` and Ralph assisted him to continue, whilst we pushed on in the failing light to find a suitable clearing to spend the night. The 3 vehicles soon caught up. Ed & Alison's vehicle was suffering with a noisy gearbox when in 4wd. Great bush camp in the forest. Thursday 11th: Kevin & Leslie departed early, trying to avoid delays for the rest, but we soon came across their note `no.2` and scars in the road to show that the 2nd rear shock had collapsed under the strain. We caught them at the old Bailey bridge at Lake Banamana, and split the convoy to facilitate Kevin and Ed both to go to Vilanculos for repairs. We arrived at Estrela de Mananisse in Inhassoro, where our hosts, Marietjie and Henry provided top rate attention at their attractive lodge campsite. The others soon joined us, but unfortunately the Staegemann Pajero was handling very poorly with the replacement shocks, and the Nissan was not fixed. Friday 12th/Saturday 13th: [3 nights @ Estrela de Mananisse]: 28 deg. At 10.30am! The sea was as flat as a lake, and we were all around the beach except Kevin, who managed to have an old set of Pajero shocks fitted locally, which ended his woes. Henry organized fresh Rock Cod for everyone, and together with the fresh poa [fresh bread rolls] we had a great fish braai. Saturday was a feature day, as we had arranged a trip to Paradise Island. Joseph, our skipper, handled the rubber duck expertly on the 15km passage, taking us initially to a beach near the old Santa Carolina Hotel. It must have been wonderful when it was open. After a picnic lunch the tide came in, and we were transported to the `Fish Tank` where we all snorkeled around in the well-stocked warm sea. On the return trip we transported a couple with 2 children, whose rubber duck had broken down. A great outing, in spite of a rough ride back. Sunday 14th: Convoy to Pomene [around 250km]: Easy ride down the EN 1, then onto sand for the last 40 km through the villages, around the mangrove swamps to the magical Pomene, later rated by the group as their favorite stopover. Shady campsites with baraccas and sea views saw us swimming, boating, walking and fishing. Wane & Marjorie made good use of their fiberglass canoe on the lagoon. Beautiful sunset with 3 nights ahead. Monday 15th/Tuesday 16th: Pomene: Up early to swim in the very warm calm sea. Corne` and Viv went in search of bait in the village, returning with `karrapouw` which would last the entire trip. Kevin and Leslie bought fresh crab in the camp, caught in the mangroves, and finished their exotic lunch before a massive thunderstorm hit us. The rain continued into the evening, but we managed our regular evening braai. Strong winds and morning showers on Tuesday stretched our ability to keep dry and smiling. Ralph and Kevin both decided to move their nylon tents under a long baracca, and this will be remembered for Ralph`s erected tent taking off down the beach with owners in hot pursuit! Even the restaurant was cold, but we were all in shorts and barefooted, so it was not too bad. Corne` & Erika tried snorkeling the lagoon reef site, made up with 2 submerged Landies, but conditions were not ideal. We braaied in a barraca, and prepared for our morning departure. Wednesday 17th: Convoy to Coconut Bay [near Inhambane a.k.a. Baia Dos Cocos]: Around 200km. Stopped in Maxixe to arrange for an auto electrician for Ed & Alison, whose alternator brushes had jammed. They followed later, whilst we used the track route through Jangamo to the Taurus store near Paindaine, which facilitated replenishment of much-needed supplies. Then on to Coconut Bay, where we had sheltered campsites but no sea views. Some of the group opted for supper at Jeff`s Place. Thursday 18th/Friday 19th: Coconut Bay: With the weather still changeable, most of the group visited Inhambane, whilst others took time out to dry out gear. Kevin arranged prawns @ R70/kg, and we enjoyed our evening braai. Friday the weather improved, but the sea remained rough. Line fish was scarce, and snorkeling impossible. We visited Guingita and Paindaine, where we enjoyed the beach vehicle access and restaurants. Saturday 20th: Convoy to Bilene, about 390 km: At last Cashew nuts roasted to perfection, and guavadellas for desert! You must hand it to the Mozambique villagers....wherever you travel they are making or growing something....working hard to cope! The work ethic appears quite different there. Ralph/Margaret and Ed/Alison wanted to go direct to Xai Xai, whilst we took the detour down and around the derelict Chongoene Hotel, with its massive pool. As in 2008 we had to push through the heavy sand which has built up against the rear of this impressive building to reach the narrow Praia do Xai Xai beach road, where we stopped for lunch. As we entered Bilene we made a wrong turn, causing the convoy to stop. Unfortunately this caused Ed & Alison to reverse into another vehicle in a traffic circle, and it took a few hours for them to get the Police Commander to come to work on a Saturday afternoon just to sign the accident report. However, we were all together for the evening braai at Laguna Camp, with its shady campsites. The lack of views of the picturesque lakes, and noisy neighboring parties was a setback. Sunday 21st/Monday 22nd: Laguna Camp, Bilene: At last the weather was warm, and we soaked up the sun around the attractive lakeside town. Most of us visited the town, including the market and Palmeiras Resort, which is ideally situated alongside the lakes. On Monday we visited the Praia do Sol Resort, and caught up with most of the group for lunch at Palmeiras. Quite a lazy day on the beach! Tuesday 23rd: Convoy to Milebangalala in the Maputo Elephant Reserve: Ed & Alison advised that they had decided to leave the group at the Komatipoort road, and we said farewell to them en route as well as Ralph & Margaret, who had decided to go directly to Ponta Do Oura. It was a real eye-opener to pass the extensive cement factory being built by the Chinese south of Catembe and Bella Vista. Quite colossal! As we neared the Reserve Viv loosened his seatbelt to climb out of his vehicle at a police checkpoint prior to the authorities eyeballing his fastened belt. Bad mistake! In the end we avoided a fine, although these armed characters wanted a bribe. Apart from this incident we were not bothered by authorities at all, and received nothing but courtesy and smiles. Then the great drive down through the Park around the lakes to the shaded seaside campsite was a real pleasure. That night after supper we were honored by a Large Spotted Genet visiting our campfire, sitting calmly and hoping for a snack. Monkeys and buck were also around the campsite. Wednesday 24th/Thursday 25th: Two wonderful days in this exotic place of never-ending beaches, swimming in the warm sea, fishing, walking. Corne` & Erika were the star fisherpersons, feeding the group on fresh elf at suppertime. This camp, without any facilities, was a fitting end to a great holiday. On the last night Kevin was presented with the Frangos Award, for 'a contribution to the group beyond the call of duty'. [Frangos = chicken in Portuguese]. His trophy was a flat chicken with Bridgestone tyre marks on its back, sculptured expertly by Corne`. Viv paid tribute to the group for their spirit and support throughout the trip, which he emphasized was of the highest order. Friday 26th: 07.00 start for a long homeward trip. Wayne & Marjorie had left the previous day, and the remaining 3 separated at the Ponta Malongane sand track, each taking different routes through the maze of roads which cover this area. Sunday night saw us in Cape Town after the 2000km trip back home, after a great holiday of 35 days and 7300km.