Richtersveld - September 2011 by Greg Van Der Reis With wonderful reports of flowers in the Richtersveld we departed on the 1st of September for four wonderful days in my favorite place in Southern Africa. Driving up was a very casual affair with Roger joining me from the start, and later we were joined by Andrew and Kate. We stopped off in Klawer for coffee and hamburgers. Then driving on past Springbok until we reached our regular bushcamp. It was 02:00 AM when we arrived and we quickly set up camp and it wasn't long before everyone was asleep. The next morning we made our way to the tar road and turned north passing through Vyfmyl Poort before arriving at the meeting point. We arrived twenty minutes before the departure time and found everybody waiting for us, all excited and ready to go. The Richtersveld grows on people and soon everybody was in their vehicles and we made our way to the start of the adventure. The local community have blocked the access to the riverbed but by driving through the storm water channel you can still get into the sandy river bed, and as soon as we entered the riverbed we stopped and deflated tyres as the normal pressure made it impossible to progress through the thick sand. Once we were on our way again we stopped to show our fellow travellers the prospectors boards that had been erected on top of the stone cairns indictating the boundary points of the prospectors claim. Further up the river bed we got to the Kaalbeen mine. This mine has seen no activity for many years but it is still fun to climb into the many shafts with a torch and camera in hand, to explore the caverns and look for bats which to hang upside down in the silent shafts. After spending some time in the mine we criss-crossed the plains, between the mountains seeing lots of Kokerbome and other succulents. A friend who lives in the area had told me about one of the sheep headers having seen two UFO's hovering above his caravan. That herders are generally uneducated and the fact that this man reported two sightings is interesting. We slowly worked our way up to one of the old mines. The mine is too dangerous to explore as cliffs have been cut back to vertical and the owner had mentioned that over the years a number of rockfalls had occured. We carry on, descending into the river valley. It was hot and there were lots of miggies buzzing into your eyes looking for moisture. Having crossed another river bed we took the folks to the campsite. While some were setting up their camp the other half of the group accompanied Greg and went to explore another granite mine in the area. I always ask myself how these big blocks of granite where transported back to civilization on the soft and sandy roads. Granite which would eventually end up as somebody's kitchen counter in some other part of the country. We spend some time at the mine and later drive to the top of the lookout where you can see for approximately 40km in all directions. Taking a number of scenic photographs and joining them together to use as one 360° view from the top of the mountain is always a favourite activity. Once again one wonders how 40 or 50 years somebody had realized that there was an abundance of granite just under the top layer of sand and rocks. After spending about an hour and a half at the mine and looking at the Halfmens we worked our way back to the campsite where the other half of the group under Roger's guidance where ready for the night. We set up camp and as the sun started to sink into the hoizon a big fire was lit. One could hear the crackling of the flames. Everyone was chatting and laughing and becoming acquainted with one another. We had travelled with very little sleep and so everyone went to bed early. The campsite in the riverbed is very pretty with mountains on three sides protecting it from the wind. As the moon rises over the valley, shadows are cast across the valley floor and in the dancing flames one sees the odd little mouse looking for a titbit. The next day the group that had set up camp first diverted to have a look at the granite mine while the second group that had visited the mine the previous day decided to get a later start. We met up on a sandy track a short distance from the granite mine. The track had many Halfmens plants that I had not noticed before. There had been a lot of rain in the area and a lot of the river beds had been washed smooth causing me to get lost on one occasion . A hundred meters further and we were back on track climbing up the river beds between the mountains and working our way towards our second overnight stop. We passed the highest point where I had seen wild horses on a previous occasion but the area was deserted and we turned into a second valley following a track that I do not believe has been driven in the last twenty years. After some time we ended up at a Mica mine. Many people have been unsuccessful in the area and this was already the second attempt to make this mine profitable. Each new owner has the dream that the mine will be successful but if one takes the logistics of getting the mica to the nearest tar road into account it becomes a logistical nightmare. We had lunch at the Mica mine where each person had the opportunity to climb around in the open cast mine and collect pieces of mica to take home as souvenirs. After lunch we descended into another river valley following old tracks. After a few kilometers we ended up on a well used gravel road. From here it entailed lots of ascents and descents driving old tracks through little river beds into the next valley. At 3pm we approached our next campsite. This campsite is my favourite. It is located on the side of a mountain and approximately 100m above the valley floor facing the South. Once everyone had their tents set up for the night the big fire was made and it was relaxed sitting watching the flames dance throwing shadows on the rocks. Once again everyone retired to bed at about 10pm. The next day we left our campsite on the side of the mountain and descended into the valley, passiing an old house that still sees the odd visitor. We joined the main road running towards Eksteensfontein and after about 10km we turned onto another old track. Driving on the narrow track we worked our way towards an old abandoned house at the foot of a very pretty mountain pass . The house has not been occupied for many many years and the roof has been removed and all that remains is the beautiful stone worked with its intricate joints. We had a few very nervous ladies with us and after lunch we took the groups and moved up the mountain pass towards the summit. The mountain pass is not dangerous, just very narrow in some places and with less than 30cm between the wheel and the edge. It does tend to make one a little nervous especially with the driver being on the mountain side of the pass and not on the edge that drops off into the valley below. After the summit the track is fairly easy and soon after a few turns to the right and left you end up on the gravel road to Eksteensfontein. Again after a short distance we divert to a river bed and soon we are in a pretty and narrow kloof. A group descends into the valley below, with lots of guiding being required to get the vehicles over the rocks without getting damaged. After leaving the valley we stopped to look at the pectoglyphs next to the road. I always ask myself what sort of idiot would write his name on stone engravings that are said to be approximately 2000 years old. The decision was made to spend the last night on the riverbank and so after traversing a rough section of rock we found a beautiful grassed campsite right on the edge of the Orange River. Some folks tried their hand at fishing and all the photographers emerged taking pics of the reflections, the mountains and the starke beauty of the valley. It was full moon and the mountains were illuminated against the starlit sky. The chatting continued late into the night as the last firewood was burnt and more and more meat was braai'd. After packing up each one vehicle made their own way back, passing the point where we had started. This was my 133rd trip to the Richterveld and definitely one of the nicest. Special thank you to Roger who led the second group and did a fantastic job .